A guide to sapphires

A sapphire is a form of mineral called Corundum which technically a ruby also derives from. We mostly think of sapphires as blue but they come in a huge variety of different colours including yellow, pink, orange, teal and Padparascha (a very rare type of peachy pink). Due to their variety in colour they are widely regarded as the most versatile gemstone and able to suit any occasion. They are extremely hard scoring 9 on the Mohs scale of hardness which makes them a very popular choice for a gemstone engagement ring due to their strength and only a diamond is harder.

What determines the price of sapphires?

1. Colour

Colour is the most important factor in determining a sapphire's value.

Hue: The basic colour, typically blue, but sapphires can also be pink, yellow, green, purple, and more.
Tone: How light or dark the colour appears. Medium to medium-dark tones are generally most desirable.
Saturation: The intensity or purity of the colour. Highly saturated, vivid colours (especially "royal blue" or "cornflower blue") are the most valuable.

2. Clarity

Sapphires often contain natural inclusions, but fewer or less visible inclusions increase value.

Eye-clean stones (no inclusions visible to the naked eye) are highly prized.
Some inclusions, like silk (fine rutile needles), can enhance the stone’s appearance if evenly distributed, particularly in star sapphires.

3. Cut

Cut affects both the beauty and value of the stone.

Well-cut sapphires reflect light evenly and enhance colour.
Poor cuts can make even high-quality material look dull or too dark/light.
Custom or precision cuts may increase the price due to craftsmanship.

4. Carat Weight

Larger sapphires are rarer and more valuable, especially if colour and clarity are also high-quality.

Prices per carat increase significantly with size, particularly over 2-3 carats.

5. Origin

The source of a sapphire can impact value due to historical prestige and colour characteristics.

Kashmir sapphires are extremely rare and command top prices.
Burma (Myanmar) and Sri Lanka (Ceylon) sapphires are also highly valued.
Madagascar, Thailand, and Australia are major modern sources, often at more affordable prices.

6. Treatment

Most sapphires are heat-treated to improve colour and clarity.

Untreated sapphires with excellent colour and clarity are rare and significantly more expensive.
Sapphires with other enhancements (e.g., diffusion, beryllium treatment) are less valuable and should be clearly disclosed.

7. Phenomena

Certain sapphires exhibit special optical effects:

Star sapphires show asterism (a star-like pattern) and are valued based on the sharpness of the star, symmetry, and body colour.
Colour-change sapphires that shift from blue to purple or green to reddish hues under different lighting are also prized

Royalty & iconic sapphires

Princess Diana & Kate Middleton: Perhaps the most famous sapphire ring belongs to Princess Diana. Her 12 carat oval blue Ceylon sapphire, surrounded by 14 diamonds and set in 18-karat white gold, was chosen from Garrard's catalog in 1981. This iconic piece now graces the finger of Catherine, Princess of Wales, symbolising continuity and royal tradition.

Elizabeth Taylor: A legendary jewelry enthusiast, Taylor owned a Bulgari necklace featuring a 65-carat sugarloaf cabochon Burmese sapphire, surrounded by diamonds and smaller sapphires. This piece exemplifies her opulent style and love for bold gemstones.

Princess Eugenie: Eugenie’s engagement ring features a rare oval-cut padparadscha sapphire with a delicate pink-orange hue, surrounded by diamonds in a vintage-inspired floral halo setting. The distinctive choice reflects her personal style and symbolises romance and individuality.

Why choose sapphire jewellery?

Sapphire jewellery embodies enduring elegance and refined sophistication, making it a distinguished choice for those with an eye for timeless design. Celebrated for its rich hues, most notably the classic deep blue, sapphire also appears in a captivating palette of pinks, yellows, and greens. Steeped in symbolism, it has long represented wisdom, loyalty, and nobility. With exceptional durability, second only to diamond, sapphire is perfectly suited to both daily wear and special occasions. Favoured by royalty and style icons alike, it lends a sense of heritage and distinction to any collection. Whether chosen for its beauty, meaning, or resilience, sapphire jewellery reflects impeccable taste and understated luxury.