A Guide to Pearls

Timeless Elegance • Natural Beauty • Enduring Symbolism

Pearls have been prized for thousands of years, long regarded as a symbol of wealth, refinement and timeless elegance. Unlike any other gem, a pearl is born entirely from a living creature, formed layer by layer within a mollusc over months or years. They come in a beautiful range of colours including white, cream, pink, silver, gold and the dramatic black of Tahitian varieties. Once reserved for royalty and the very wealthy due to their natural rarity, the development of cultured pearl farming in the early twentieth century means that today everyone can enjoy their quiet, enduring beauty.

Where Do Pearls Come From?

The vast majority of pearls available today are cultured rather than naturally occurring. Freshwater cultured pearls are produced primarily in China, which remains the world's largest pearl producer. Saltwater cultured pearls come from specialist pearl farms around the world, each producing pearls with their own distinctive character.

Japan is celebrated for its Akoya pearls, known for their exceptional lustre and classic round shape. Australia and Indonesia produce the prized South Sea pearl, known for its larger size and soft, satiny glow. French Polynesia is home to the Tahitian pearl, famed for its dramatic dark body tones and remarkable range of overtone colours.

Natural Pearls and Cultured Pearls

A natural pearl forms without any human intervention. When an irritant such as a parasite or piece of debris enters a mollusc's shell, the creature responds by secreting nacre around it, layer by layer, eventually forming a pearl. Truly natural pearls are exceptionally rare today and command very significant prices when found.

A cultured pearl follows the same biological process, but begins with a human implanting a nucleus, typically a polished piece of shell or a small bead, into the mollusc to stimulate nacre production. The result is a genuine pearl, grown in exactly the same way, and cultured pearls make up the vast majority of pearl jewellery available today.

The Different Types of Pearl

Each variety of pearl has its own origin, character and appeal. Understanding the differences helps you find the right pearl for your jewellery and your taste.

Akoya Pearls

Origin

Japan and China

Character

The classic pearl of fine jewellery. Akoya pearls are celebrated for their exceptional lustre, near-perfect round shape and crisp white or cream body colour with rose or silver overtones. The standard by which all other pearls are often measured.

Typical Size

6mm to 9mm

South Sea Pearls

Origin

Australia, Indonesia and the Philippines

Character

Among the most prized pearls in the world. South Sea pearls are known for their large size, thick nacre and soft, satiny lustre. They come in white, silver and warm golden tones and carry an understated luxury that is immediately recognisable.

Typical Size

10mm to 15mm

Tahitian Pearls

Origin

French Polynesia

Character

Often referred to as black pearls, though they range from charcoal and silver to deep green and peacock. Tahitian pearls are dramatic, distinctive and highly sought after. Their overtone colours are unlike any other pearl variety.

Typical Size

9mm to 14mm

Freshwater Pearls

Origin

Primarily China

Character

The most widely available pearl variety and an excellent entry point into pearl jewellery. Freshwater pearls come in a wide range of shapes, sizes and pastel colours. Modern production has improved quality significantly, making them a beautiful and accessible choice.

Typical Size

4mm to 12mm

Golden South Sea Pearls

Origin

Philippines and Indonesia

Character

Produced by the gold-lipped oyster, these warm golden pearls are among the rarest and most luxurious in the world. Their rich colour is entirely natural and ranges from champagne and light gold to deep, vivid gold.

Typical Size

10mm to 13mm

Keshi Pearls

Origin

Various, often a by-product of cultured pearl farming

Character

Formed when the mollusc rejects the nucleus but continues to secrete nacre. Keshi pearls are entirely nacre with no nucleus, giving them an extraordinarily high lustre. Their irregular, organic shapes make each one completely unique.

Typical Size

Varies considerably

What Determines the Price of a Pearl?

Pearl pricing is shaped by several factors working together. Understanding what to look for ensures you make a considered and confident choice.

Lustre

Lustre is the most important quality factor in a pearl. It refers to the depth and intensity of the light reflected from the surface. The stronger and sharper the lustre, the more valuable the pearl. A high-lustre pearl will show a clear reflection almost like a mirror.

Size

Pearls are measured in millimetres and larger pearls are generally rarer and more valuable. A difference of even one millimetre can have a significant impact on price, particularly at the higher end of the size range.

Shape

Perfectly round pearls are the most prized and the most difficult to produce. Near-round, oval, button and baroque shapes are also popular, particularly in contemporary jewellery design where irregular shapes can add character and personality.

Surface Quality

The fewer blemishes, dimples and surface irregularities a pearl has, the more valuable it is. Completely clean surfaces are rare in nature and command a premium, though minor surface characteristics are accepted in all but the finest quality pearls.

Nacre Thickness

Thicker nacre generally means better lustre, greater durability and a richer, deeper appearance. Pearls with thin nacre can look dull over time or show the nucleus beneath the surface. South Sea and Tahitian pearls are known for their exceptional nacre depth.

Origin

Origin plays a significant role in value. Chinese freshwater pearls are the most accessible. Japanese Akoya, Australian South Sea, Golden South Sea and Tahitian pearls all command considerably higher prices due to their rarity, lustre and the exacting conditions required to produce them.

Quick Facts

Birthstone June

Anniversary 30th Year

Hardness 2.5 Mohs

Notable Sources Japan, Australia, French Polynesia, China

Special Feature The only gem created by a living creature

Rarest Variety Natural Pearl

Why Choose Pearl Jewellery?

Pearls occupy a unique place in fine jewellery. They are the only gem created entirely by a living creature, which gives them an organic warmth and quiet beauty that no other stone can replicate. They have been worn by royalty, celebrated by artists and treasured across cultures for millennia.

Their versatility is unmatched. A single pearl pendant works as effortlessly with a simple shirt as it does with an evening gown. A strand of South Sea pearls carries an elegance that feels both timeless and modern. And with so many varieties available, from the accessible charm of freshwater pearls to the extraordinary lustre of a fine Akoya, there is a pearl for every taste and every occasion.

Whether chosen as a personal investment in timeless style, a meaningful gift, or a bridal jewellery piece, pearl jewellery carries a significance that goes beyond fashion. At Cheshires, we would love to help you find the right pearl for you.